Monday, November 12, 2007
As we all know, it pays to allow most plants to die back to at least that forlornly limp and yellowish stage as this allows the plants to absorb sunlight and strength for next year. This is particularly important to bulbs, like daffodils and narcissus and the like, but also to most perennials. That said, I finally hacked down what was left of the peonies in the white border, as I was sick to death of looking at their blackened remains. Likewise the stalks of the spent shasta daisies, although their leaf clumps still look remarkably fresh, and the big, naked canes of the hearty hibiscus out by the pool.
This neatening impulse also took itself off to the cutting garden, where I pulled out the all dead zinnias, lopped off the tops of the very forlorn looking dahlias, and dug up the tubers to be stored over the winter. For those of you who are dahlia lovers and wish to do the same, the tubers are best stored in a crate of slightly moistened peat moss or wood shavings at a temperature between 40 and 50 degrees. Do check them, however, a couple of times throughout the winter to make sure they’re not rotting or shriveling.
In the vegetable gardens, I denuded the big bamboo structures of their limp bean, squash, and tomato vines, and raked up the remains of the nasturtiums, bush beans, and whatever else had succumbed to frost, leaving the die-hards to provide some becoming human fodder for a few more months. In fact, last night, I had a nice garlicky sauté of kale, chard, and arugula along with some mashed celery root to accompany a grilled steak. Also still thriving are leeks, cabbages, broccoli, the winter squash, which has been harvested and stored, and a good number of the herbs, including mint, parsley, and sage. There are still plenty of good meals to be had from the garden, even as December approaches.
I’m going to dedicate the last portion of this column to the subject of mulch and mulching in general, as this is the time of year when we should all be giving this subject some due consideration. First of all, let’s consider that blanket of fallen leaves that is currently covering most of our lawns. To many, this is a nagging chore involving aching backs and shoulders and mounds of useless debris perpetuated on unsuspecting man by an unfeeling Mother Nature. To others, however, this is certifiable brown gold, as valuable to the gardener as a bucket of earthworms or beneficial nematodes.
For if you rake your leaves into a pile and, even better, one encircled by a perimeter of stout wire fencing so that you can really pack them in, then leave them to degrade for two or three years, you will have achieved the wonder of humus, which is nature’s gift to your soil. As well, if you amend this pile occasionally with animal manures, kitchen waste, grass clippings: whatever presents itself in your household or on your land, and fork it thought every once and a while with a pitchfork, you will be adding veritable gems to your gold. The best scenario, if you have the room, is to have three or four of these piles going, in close proximity, so that you always have one sufficiently “aged” to employ immediately, and so that you can amend the others easily as you’re whipping your way by with your cart.
I'm going to retire this blog for the season here, as I'm sure all gardeners are looking forward to a little down time as winter descends, and I look forward to catching up with you again come spring. A magical holiday and triumphant New Year to you all.
Monday, September 17, 2007
Well, the first thing to do is to get back down off that horse, trundle off to the garden shed, drag out your hoses and sprinklers and give some sustenance to the worst victims. Forget the lawn: let it go the gold of prairie grass: it’ll come back as it gets wetter. Instead, give your attentions to any tree that shows signs of stress or drooping or yellowing leaves. Drag the hose over to its roots and just let it run full tilt for a good half hour, keeping in mind that the water’s going to have to permeate a good four or five feet of soil to do any good at all. Secondly, give your attentions to any groupings of shrubs or established perennials that are looking the least bit forlorn. Again, anything with an established root system is going to be overlooked entirely by any superficial watering such as that supplied by your typical lawn sprinkler, which probably only permeates to about six inches an hour, so take the time to stand there, hose in hand, and give each root system its due.
The next thing to do is to get out a good pair of clippers, some garden twine and a bundle of bamboo stakes, throw them into your wheelbarrow, and start doing some aesthetic damage control, particularly in areas like your perennial beds and the vegetable garden if you have one.
In the vegetable garden, if it’s bolted or spent (lettuce… dill… broccoli… corn… cilantro…), yank it out and re-seed with a fall crop of cold-hearty cultivars. Remember to keep these newly seeded patches moist as tender seedlings will fry in a second : a watering every day will be necessary until they’ve got a couple of sets of true leaves on them. If it’s grown into an unkempt, disheveled thicket (mint… lemon balm… New Zealand spinach… sorrel…), hack it back to within its originally prescribed bounds. Also, stake up tall specimens like pepper plants, eggplants, and Brussels sprouts to keep them from prostrating themselves too abjectly. You’ll be amazed how a couple of hours of work in this regard can turn an overgrown eyesore into something that at least has a nodding acquaintance with neat and orderly.
In the borders, follow the same game plan. Deadhead and cutback anything that’s over. Right now, that’s been meaning the big stands of shasta daisy, hollyhocks, stachys, and a good deal of the phlox. Use your aesthetic judgement on what’s left. If it’s sprawling, stake it up. It it’s too out of control to stake, reshape the stand, cutting back the most unruly culprits, then stake it. This has been particularly effective for those alarmingly tall stands at the back of the borders of things like Joe Pye weed (eupatorium maculatum) and purple loosestrife (lythrum salicaria).
At the front of the border, trim up anything that’s grown leggy and is over-spilling the path. In our case, this group includes cosmos, baby’s breath (gypsophila elegans), some hearty geranium, artemesia, and, of course, the lamb’s ears (stachys byzantina). Think of all this as a form of housekeeping: like cleaning up after an overly (or perhaps just sufficiently) festive party. Once you’ve shoveled through the detris, tossed out the garbage, put the plates and glasses away, and straightened up the sofa cushions, you find your living space has been miraculously restored to you, even if, in truth, the whole room could do with a fresh paint job.
So it goes with the September garden. In then end, just try to concentrate on what’s looking lush and lovely despite the heat and the drought, like our hydrangeas for instance. Or the big, sunshiny stands of heliopsis and helianthus at the top of the summer borders. Or the fall-blooming, sweet clematis paniculata montana that’s showcasing it’s frilly snowflakes on the vegetable garden arbor. And keep in mind that there’s still plenty more enjoyment to be gotten from your gardens straight through till frost.
Friday, August 24, 2007
The answer? Popping in. “Popping in” is a twofold idea. First, it entails “popping in” to your local perennial supplier and loosening up your wallet a tad. Then it entails “popping in” what you have just purchased into the spots in your garden that are currently displaying a paucity of bloom and foliage. This is really an extremely enjoyable activity on a number of fronts. For one thing, it’s an excellent time to be shopping for plants not only because prices are excellent as growers look to unload a bit of their stock as fall approaches, but, also, because the gratification is absolutely instant. Unlike spring buying when you’re purchasing a fluff of green in a pot that might aspire to something tall and colorful in the future but is making only a nascent showing at the moment, August perennial shopping allows you to see exactly what you’re buying in all its glory, and have it give your garden an immediate boost.
We make it a point to always “pop in” in increments of three or five plants: one or two is never enough to make a good showing and it seems to me that an odd number will always give you the right “cloudy”, slightly freeform planting effect for which we gardeners strive. We’ll start, then, with the mid-border. There we added some of the prettiest of the blue delphiniums, in mixed clusters of five, specifically the deep purple-y blue “King Arthur”, the lovely, clear, medium blue “Blue Bride”, and the paler, very aptly named “Summer Skies”. In between, with, again, artful randomness, we added stands of white, highly fragrant Casablanca lilies, some of echinacea purpurea “Magnus”, the handsome, pinky-purple cone flower with the yellow eye, and a few of the really stunning phlox “Norah Leigh” with its variegated foliage and pale pink blossom with darker eye.
Of slightly more compact but no less winsome demeanor was the addition of two or three clusters each of physostegia virginiana “Crown Rose” with its pale pink spikes, the veronica “Sunny Border Blue”, which is spiked with blossoms of a true, deep blue, and the achillea ptarmica “The Pearl”, a very pretty white yarrow with tiny, almost daisy-like flowers. At the front of the border, for some nice, low jolts of authentic silver, we added some clusters of the artemesia “Silver Mound” and cerastium tomentosum, the poetically named “Snow In Summer”. For spectacular deep purple foliage, we added two varieties of heuchera, the beautifully veined “Cathedral Windows” and the new, strikingly ruffled “Stormy Seas”, which adds just a hint of green underbelly to the leaf. For further visual upholstery at the edges of the borders, we also added a couple of drifts each of the pink flowering baby’s breath, gypsophyla paniculata “Festival Pink”, and the lavender-hued pincushion flower, scabiosa columbaria “Butterfly Blue”. All in all, it added up to a veritable “border makeover”: from frowzy to fabulous in just a few days.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
There are many stars to applaud here but, as we have learned over the years, blossom may be enchanting but foliage is forever, so I will start with the big anchors: the shrubs and trees. At the back of these borders, we’ve planted six tall weeping, fastigiate copper beeches (fagus purpureo-pendula), three on each side of the central path. The foliage is black purple and a marvelous backdrop for greens and yellows, and their twisty, weepy forms are magnificent against the horizon. We’ve also added, mid-slope, substantial, ribbon-y drifts of berberis thunbergii aurea and atropurpurea, the yellow and purple Japanese barberry, the purple echoing the deep burgundy of the beeches, the yellow providing a dramatic, white-hot counterpoint.
Additionally, in the center of each half of the borders, we’ve planted a huge aesculus parviflora (bottlebrush buckeye), a member of the horse chestnut family, each about 10 feet broad, which are currently extending their magnificent, vanilla-colored panicles skyward. On the right side, where the half of the border is broader and meets up with an adjoining slope, we’ve planted a couple of impressive stands of purple smokebush (cotinus coggygria purpureus). For those unfamiliar with this large-growing tree-shrub (to as much as 15 feet), it is a rare, visual treat. It’s foliage matches the deep hues of the red barberry and the copper beech, but it is it’s astonishing clouds of pink/gray blossom – literally clouds like puffs of smoke, as airy as baby’s breath -- that are it’s unique attraction.
Perennially, up under and around the weeping copper beech, we’ve planted big stands of plume poppy (macleaya cordata), growing to about 7 feet, with its lovely, glaucous, brassica-like blue foliage and magnificent plumes providing very nice contrast. Also at the top of the borders, large stands of helianthus petiolaris (prairie sunflower) and heliopsis helianthoides (sunflower heliopsis), two tall-growing varieties of perennial sunflower, providing lots of yellow sparkle to joust with the surrounding hues of burgundy and blue. As well, a grouping of yucca filamentosa (Adam’s needle) with their marvelous, succulent, lance-shaped foliage and towering stalks of bell-like white blossoms. All together, a very nice show for these tall cultivars.
Farther down the slope, about on a level with the barberries, are substantial stands of red hot poker (kniphofia uvaria), which I would certainly rate as the top bananas in this particular Carmen Miranda’s hat. Also in this mid-range, some rudbeckia Goldstrum and triloba (Brown-eyed Susan), both members of the coneflower family, and achillea filipendulina “Coronation Gold”, providing some surprising yellow accents themselves.
And finally, filling in at the bottom of the borders, just inside the edging of coreopsis “Zagreb”, are three varieties of day lily (hemerocallis “Rozavel”, “American Dream“, and “Frances Fay”) in shades of deep, yellow-throated crimson, clear lemon yellow, and salmon, and a bit stand of flaming red crocosmia. These are all brought into sharper focus by a few, interplanted stands of the yellow-eyed, pure white faces of shasta daisy (chrysanthemum superbum). This is another lesson we have learned overtime: always add a dash of white to any border for it invariably enlivens every color that surrounds it. Not that that the colors in this particular border need much enlivening… See you in August!
Monday, June 18, 2007
Some of the early stars in these borders are the tall, true blue spires of baptisia australis, the wild blue indigo, with its lovely blue-green, pea-like foliage, and big stands of mountain bluet (centaurea montana), the perennial form of bachelor’s button, with that wonderful thistle-y, deep blue flower. Another blue girl not to ignore is veronica incania (wooly speedwell) with its white, wooly stems and 6’ spikes of an enchanting porcelain blue. Also, the native columbines (aquilegia canadensis), members of the Buttercup family, with their dainty blue, white or purple spurred blossoms borne high on upright spikes, and the lavender-violet clouds and tall, airy foliage of thalictrum rochebrunianum (lavender mist), a native of Japan and a real star for the back of the border.
The front of the border is currently being brightened by cerastium tomentosum (snow-in-summer) with its gray foliage and pretty, spreading carpet of dianthus-like white blossoms, and several varieties of hearty geranium and cranesbill, with their attractive, deeply-cut leaf clumps and pink-to-white blossoms. All of this is punctuated with the occasional exclamation point of a grouping of giant white allium Mount Everest. Very nice indeed from my office window.
Saturday, May 19, 2007
What I have finally achieved are 3 square pergolas: one centering the main vegetable garden and the others centering each of the Siamese twin plots, one up a step from the other, in back of the chicken house. In each case, the pergola sits astride the crossing of the cruciform paths and is tall enough for me to walk under without stooping. Each has a peaked roof running to about ten feet tall, and is about six feet square.
The pair in the tomato gardens are each composed of four cylindrical bamboo columns eighteen inches in diameter and eight feet tall, rather like a quartet of immense tomato cages, which is, of course, what they’re meant to be. Resting on the shared inner circumferences of these is the square, peaked roof. My plan is to grow each of the eight columns with a single type of tomato, then let them all meet in the center to decorate the roof. I think I’ll also grow a couple of Caracalla Bean vines up each as a companion planting, which will provide a little late summer dazzle as well as a bit of green coverage when the tomato vines start looking rotty.
The one in the center of the main garden has quite an elaborate, almost fish scale looking roof treatment I constructed out of bamboo edging hoops. These I had purchased in massive quantity to make an overlapping edging for some of our island beds, an effect I absolutely detested. However, they turned out to be perfect for adding architectural interest to and providing tensile cross-bracing for these large-scale bamboo structures, which just goes to show you that the worm can turn nicely when it wants. Also, do use “zip-tie” rather than twine or waxed string to make your joins: their supremely tight grip will make the structure substantially more sound.
I’m planning on growing that pergola with Sun Bright Runner Bean, a new variety from Thompson & Morgan which has yellow foliage and brilliant scarlet blossoms, and Malabar Spinach, with its handsome reds stems, tiny pink blossoms and succulent green leaves. It should be quite a happy pairing. To be brutally honest, Runner Beans as edible “green beans” are never as tasty and tender as your basic Blue Lake or Fin De Bagnol or Kwintus varieties, but their blossoms make up for everything, and they’re excellent for drying, shelling, and using during the winter.
Friday, May 11, 2007
The reseeding of the lawns just turned the corner form tedious to triumphant as we’ve started to rake up the hay we scattered over the reseeded lawns two weeks ago. This year, this was a major project, especially on the slope above our largest pond, which the ducks and geese use as their marching ground when they are not “flap-running” down it into the pond, wings and feet slapping the air, with our young hound Chester in playful pursuit.
At any rate, this large area had seen so much use that it was virtually bald, with the roots of the trees poking like knees and elbows through the ground. We had to haul in a truckload of topsoil first, rake it over the offending limbs, then seed, then top it all off with a good mulching of hay, not only to help keep the seeds damp but to prevent the geese from eating them. Today, two weeks later, we started raking up the hay and, mirabile dictu, there was the yearned-for, lush carpet of green, which I thought fairly instant on the gratification scale.
Now is also the time you should be eyeballing your perennial beds with an eye to editing the sprawlers and filling in the blanks. Start making a list in preparation for the frost date (May 15th), always remembering that a cluster of three or five of any given cultivar will always be more effective (and instantly gratifying) than the lonely single specimen.
And, finally, I’d like to dedicate this column to the memory of our dear dog Casper, who we had to put to sleep 5 years ago this month. In moments of contemplation, I go and sit with him on the hill above the summer borders, where we buried him. This is infinitely calming to me. Although we are fortunate to have the new and much loved presences of our most recent SPCA adoptees Zack and Chester, I still do not garden a day without wishing Casper were there beside me.
Monday, May 7, 2007
Our frost date here in Pennsylvania is May 15th, although I am always tempted to rush the season a little. However, one important thing we are doing right now in preparation for it, and something you should be considering as well, is getting out your saws and shears and, finally, getting rid of all the winter-kill and shaggy-headedness of your trees and shrubs and roses and vines before the growing season starts to overtake you. Tie up the climbers, too, while you’re at it. This week I sheered the tops of the Euonymous around the lily and cutting gardens ('Silver King' and 'Golden Queen' respectively, both wonderful variegated varieties that really add visual punch to a border in a green landscape), as well as the Lonicera Bagusson’s Gold that surrounds the two most visually prominent beds in the vegetable garden.
It really pays to crisp up things like edging and hedges at this time of year. Top your beds off with a nice mulching around the perennials and the place looks quite spiff, whether there’s a blossom in sight or not!